R-value is the measure of thermal resistance — how well insulation resists the flow of heat. Higher R-value means better insulation performance. In many regions’s cold climate, R-value recommendations are significantly higher than in warmer Canadian regions, and many older your region homes are substantially under-insulated relative to current best practice.


“The R-value question I get most often is: what does my attic have, and how much should it have? The honest answer for most older your region homes is: probably R-12 to R-20, and it should be R-50 to R-60. That’s a big gap, and it’s where the biggest energy savings are. The good news is that filling that gap is one of the most straightforward and cost-effective home improvements available.”

— Priya Sundaram, certified insulation contractor and building envelope specialist with 16 years of experience in residential insulation and energy efficiency upgrades in the local area


Recommended R-Values for your region (Climate Zone 6)

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Most of your region falls within NRCan Climate Zone 6 — a cold climate zone with long, cold winters. The following are Natural Resources your country recommendations for existing homes being upgraded (not new construction minimums, which are lower):

Location Recommended R-value
Attic (flat ceiling below attic) R-50 to R-60
Cathedral ceiling / roof assembly R-40 to R-50
Exterior walls (above grade) R-20 to R-24
Basement walls (from interior) R-12 to R-20
Basement slab (floor) R-10
Rim joist R-20 (closed-cell spray foam)
Crawlspace walls R-12 to R-20

What Does Typical your region Housing Actually Have?

Home era Typical attic R-value Typical wall R-value
Pre-1945 R-0 to R-5 (if any insulation) R-0 to R-4
1945–1965 R-5 to R-12 R-4 to R-8
1965–1980 R-12 to R-20 R-8 to R-12
1980–2000 R-20 to R-32 R-12 to R-20
2000–present R-32 to R-50+ R-20+

Even homes built in the 1990s often fall short of current recommendations for attic insulation — which is why attic top-ups are worthwhile in homes that are 20–30 years old.

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Understanding R-Value in Common Materials

Material R-value per inch
Blown fibreglass R-2.2 to R-2.9
Blown cellulose R-3.2 to R-3.8
Fibreglass batt R-3.0 to R-3.8
Mineral wool batt R-3.7 to R-4.2
Open-cell spray foam R-3.7
Closed-cell spray foam R-6.0 to R-7.0
EPS rigid foam board R-3.6 to R-4.0
XPS rigid foam board R-5.0
Polyisocyanurate rigid board R-6.0 to R-6.5

Why R-Value Alone Isn’t Enough

R-value measures resistance to conductive heat transfer — heat moving through a material. But homes also lose heat through:

Air infiltration (convective heat loss): Air moves through gaps, penetrations, and bypasses carrying conditioned air out and cold air in. This can represent 25–40% of a home’s total heat loss. R-value doesn’t measure or address this.

Thermal bridging: Where materials with poor insulation value (framing lumber, steel, concrete) create pathways for heat to bypass the insulation. This reduces the effective R-value of an assembly below the nominal value.

This is why air sealing alongside insulation is critical — and why a certified energy advisor and blower door test give a more complete picture of a home’s performance than R-value alone.


How to Know What Your Home Currently Has

Attic: Measure the depth of insulation in the attic and identify the type (loose-fill fibreglass or cellulose, batt fibreglass). Divide depth by R-value per inch for that material type.

Walls: Harder to assess without opening the wall. A certified energy advisor using blower door testing and thermal imaging can identify missing or insufficient wall insulation non-invasively.

Basement: Measure or assess the type and thickness of any visible insulation on walls. Many basements in older homes have no insulation on the walls.


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