Shingles are what most homeowners focus on when talking to a roofer — and they matter. But shingles are only the most visible part of a roofing system. What goes underneath them, around them, and at the edges of your roof determines how long the whole system performs. A premium shingle installed on cheap underlayment over inadequate ventilation will fail faster than a mid-grade shingle installed correctly on a properly prepared deck.
Understanding the full materials picture — and knowing what questions to ask about each component — is how you evaluate a roofing quote on quality, not just price.
“Homeowners ask me about shingles all the time, which is fine — shingles matter. But the questions I wish they’d ask more are about the underlayment, the ice and water shield, and the ventilation. Those are the components that determine whether a roof lasts 15 years or 30. They’re also the ones that a budget roofer cuts first, because they’re invisible once the shingles go on.”
— Alex from Armour Roofing, licensed roofing contractor and member of the Canadian Roofing Contractors Association with 24 years of experience in residential roofing in the local area
Table of Contents
Questions About Shingles
What type of shingles are you recommending, and why?
There are several types of asphalt shingles available for residential roofing:
3-tab shingles are the entry-level option — flat, uniform in appearance, and typically carrying a 20–25 year manufacturer warranty. They’re lighter and less expensive but offer less durability and wind resistance than laminate options.
Architectural (laminated) shingles are the current residential standard. They have a dimensional, layered appearance, better wind resistance, and typically carry 30–50 year manufacturer warranties. Most quality roofers recommend these as the baseline for a full replacement.
Impact-resistant shingles (Class 4 rated) are worth asking about in areas prone to hail. They cost more upfront but can qualify for insurance discounts and significantly outperform standard shingles in storm conditions.
Ask your roofer what they’re recommending and why — and push for a specific answer about the brand and product line, not just the category.
What a good answer looks like: A specific brand, product line, and warranty class, with a clear explanation of why it’s appropriate for your climate, roof pitch, and budget.
What is the shingle’s wind rating?
In your country, particularly in areas prone to storms or high winds, shingle wind ratings matter. Architectural shingles are typically rated for winds of 110–130 km/h, while premium impact-resistant shingles can be rated higher. Ask specifically what the wind rating is for the shingles being proposed.
Are you a certified installer for this shingle manufacturer?
This question is more important than it sounds. Most shingle manufacturers offer enhanced warranties — sometimes extending coverage to 50 years or to include labor — but only when the shingles are installed by a certified contractor using all required system components (specific underlayment, proper ventilation, etc.). An uncertified installer may use the same shingles but the homeowner won’t be eligible for the enhanced warranty.
Ask directly: are you a certified installer for this brand, and does that certification unlock a better warranty for me?
What a good answer looks like: Confirmed certification with the manufacturer, and a clear explanation of what additional warranty coverage that provides.
Questions About the Full Roofing System
What underlayment will be used?
Underlayment is the layer between the roof deck and the shingles. It provides a secondary barrier against water infiltration if shingles are damaged. There are two main types:
Felt underlayment (15 lb or 30 lb) is the traditional option. Adequate, but less durable and less water-resistant than synthetic alternatives.
Synthetic underlayment is the current standard among quality roofers — it’s lighter, stronger, more tear-resistant, and provides better water protection. If a roofer is quoting felt underlayment on a full replacement, ask why.
What a good answer looks like: Synthetic underlayment specified by brand and weight, with an explanation of why it’s appropriate for your roof.
How much ice and water shield will be applied, and where?
Ice and water shield is a self-adhering waterproof membrane — essential in Canadian climates where ice dams form at eaves and penetrations. Building code typically requires a minimum of two feet of ice and water shield at the eaves, but a quality installation applies it more broadly: at eaves, rakes, valleys, around all penetrations (chimneys, skylights, vent stacks), and often at the entire lower third of roofs with shallow pitches.
Ask exactly how much ice and water shield is included and where it will be applied.
What a good answer looks like: A specific description of coverage that goes beyond the code minimum, particularly around all penetrations and valleys.
Will all flashing be replaced?
Flashing is the metal used to seal transitions between the roof and vertical surfaces — chimneys, dormers, skylights, walls. Old, deteriorated, or improperly installed flashing is one of the leading causes of roof leaks. Ask whether all existing flashing will be replaced as part of the job, or only inspected and reused.
What a good answer looks like: All flashing replaced as standard, with new step flashing at walls and fresh counter-flashing at chimneys — not reuse of old material.
What will be done about roof ventilation?
Proper attic ventilation is critical to the long-term performance of any roof. Inadequate ventilation causes heat and moisture buildup that accelerates shingle degradation from the underside and can void manufacturer warranties. Ask the roofer to assess your current ventilation and confirm whether it’s adequate for the new roof system.
What a good answer looks like: A ventilation assessment included in the quote, with any deficiencies identified and addressed.
Will the roof deck be inspected, and how is damaged decking handled?
After tear-off, the roof deck (typically plywood or OSB) is exposed. Damaged, rotted, or water-compromised decking must be replaced before new shingles go on. Ask how damaged decking is handled: will the roofer show you any damage before replacing it? Is there a pre-agreed per-sheet price for replacement, or is it a blank check?
What a good answer looks like: A per-sheet decking replacement price established in the quote, with a commitment to show you any damage before proceeding.
What Separates a Quality Installation from a Budget One
Most homeowners can’t see the difference between a quality roof and a cheap one once the shingles are down. Here’s what separates them:
- Synthetic vs felt underlayment
- Generous vs minimal ice and water shield
- New vs reused flashing
- Properly nailed starter strips vs shortcuts at eaves
- Correct ventilation vs ignored ventilation
- Properly installed ridge cap vs cheap finishing
A roofer who can speak specifically and confidently to each of these is a roofer who knows their trade. One who brushes past them is showing you where they’re cutting corners.
Related Questions
- Questions to Ask a Roofer Before You Hire One
- Questions to Ask When Getting a Roofing Quote
- Questions to Ask a Roofer About Warranties
- How Much Does a Roof Replacement Cost ?
- Repair vs Replace: How Do I Know If I Need a New Roof?
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