A locksmith is one of the few tradespeople you may need to hire in an emergency — locked out of your home at midnight, keys lost, a break-in that’s left a door compromised. In that situation, the pressure to hire whoever answers the phone first is real. That urgency is also what a specific category of fraudulent locksmith operators exploits: they advertise low prices, arrive and quote a dramatically higher price once they’re on site, and use aggressive tactics to collect before the job is done.

Locksmith work in many regions is also broader than emergency lockouts. Rekeying locks after moving into a new home, upgrading deadbolts and hardware, installing smart locks, changing locks after a relationship breakdown or employee departure, installing commercial access control, and conducting security assessments are all locksmith services — each with different complexity and different questions to ask.

“The question that separates a legitimate locksmith from a predatory one is the price question — asked before they arrive. A professional locksmith gives you an honest estimate over the phone including the service call, labor, and any parts, before a single tool comes out of the van. A scam operation gives you a $19 dispatch price and then explains on site why the ‘special’ lock or ‘security grade’ installation requires $400 more. Get the full price estimate before they leave their shop.”

— Ahmed from KeyShield Locksmith, locksmith specialist providing residential, automotive, and commercial locksmith services across Toronto and surrounding areas, focused on responsive service, practical security solutions, and reliable customer support

Before You Call Anyone

black and silver padlock on white door

What type of locksmith service do you need?

Emergency lockout: You’re locked out of your home, car, or business. The most time-sensitive scenario — and the one most targeted by fraudulent operators. Even in an emergency, take 2 minutes to get a price estimate before booking.

Rekeying: Changing the internal pins of existing locks so old keys no longer work. Much less expensive than replacing locks. Appropriate when moving into a new home (previous owners, tenants, contractors all have copies of the old keys), after a relationship breakdown, or after losing keys.

Lock replacement: Replacing the entire lockset. Appropriate when the existing hardware is worn, damaged, or significantly inferior to what you want installed. Often combined with an upgrade.

Security upgrade: Upgrading to higher-grade deadbolts, adding secondary locks, or addressing specific vulnerabilities identified in a security assessment.

Smart lock installation: Installing keypad, Bluetooth, or WiFi-enabled locks. Ranges from simple deadbolt replacement to complex integration with home automation systems.

Commercial access control: Keypad entry, card readers, master key systems for businesses, offices, or multi-unit buildings. More complex than residential work.

Is this actually a locksmith job, or a door or hardware job?

A locksmith handles the locking mechanism — the cylinder, the deadbolt, the hardware. A door that won’t close properly because the frame is warped, the door is sagging, or the weatherstripping is failing is a carpenter or door contractor job. If your door isn’t closing correctly, address the door before the lock.

Questions to Ask Before Booking

Detailed image of a disassembled lock cylinder and its metal components on a colored surface.

Can you give me a complete price estimate over the phone?

This is the single most important question when calling a locksmith — particularly for emergency services. Ask specifically:

  • What is the service call / dispatch fee?
  • What is the labor charge for this type of job?
  • What are the likely parts costs (lock cylinders, new locksets)?
  • What is the total estimated cost, all in?

A professional locksmith provides a reasonable estimate over the phone. They may say “the final price depends on what we find when we get there” — which is legitimate — but they should also give you an estimated range for the most likely scenario.

What a good answer looks like: “The service call is $X, labor for a lockout is typically $Y, and if the lock needs to be drilled it’s an additional $Z. Most standard lockouts run between $A and $B total.”

A red flag: A very low dispatch price ($19, $29, $39) with no mention of labor or parts. This is the classic bait-and-switch setup.

Are you a licensed locksmith in many regions?

Your region does not have a regional licensing regime specifically for locksmiths — unlike electricians or plumbers. However, ask whether the locksmith:

  • Is a member of a professional association (ALOA — Associated Locksmiths of America, or CAL — Canadian Association of Locksmiths)
  • Holds any manufacturer certifications (for specific lock brands or access control systems)
  • Carries liability insurance

What a good answer looks like: Confirmed professional association membership, insurance available on request.

Are you local — do you have a physical business address?

Ask for the company’s physical address. Many fraudulent locksmith operations are shell businesses with no local office — they rank in local search results through fake listings and dispatch technicians who are not actually local professionals. A legitimate local locksmith has a verifiable physical business address.

What a good answer looks like: A specific street address in or near your city, not a PO box or “we serve your area.”

Can you provide identification and proof of insurance when you arrive?

A legitimate locksmith should arrive with business identification and be able to provide a certificate of insurance. Ask before they arrive that they bring this. Verify the business name matches the company you called.

Questions About the Job

For a lockout: what methods will you use to gain entry?

Professional locksmiths use non-destructive entry methods whenever possible:

Lock picking: Manipulating the lock pins to open the lock without the key. Appropriate for most standard pin tumbler locks. No damage to the lock.

Lock bumping: Using a specially cut key and light impact to open the lock. Effective on many pin tumbler locks. No damage.

Bypassing: Using specific techniques to bypass the lock mechanism without picking or drilling. Lock-specific.

Drilling: Destroying the lock to gain entry. Should be a last resort — only when the lock genuinely cannot be picked or bypassed. Drilling requires lock replacement.

Ask specifically what method will be used for your lock type and confirm that drilling will only be used if non-destructive entry genuinely fails.

Red flag: A locksmith who immediately drills without attempting non-destructive entry. Drilling means you pay for a new lock in addition to the service call.

For more: Questions to Ask a Locksmith About Lockout Services

For rekeying: what does the process involve?

Rekeying involves removing the lock cylinder, replacing the internal pin stacks with new pins that match a different key cut, and reassembling the lock. The lock hardware remains; only the key that opens it changes. Ask:

  • Is this lock rekeyable? (Most pin tumbler deadbolts are; some novelty or very cheap locks are not)
  • Can all the locks in my home be rekeyed to the same key? (Yes, in most cases — called “keying alike”)
  • What key will I have when you’re done — how many copies?

For more: Questions to Ask a Locksmith About Rekeying and Lock Upgrades

For smart lock installation: is this lock compatible with my door and my system?

Smart lock compatibility depends on:

  • Door preparation: Does the door have the correct bore pattern for the lock? Most smart locks are designed for the standard 2-1/8″ bore common on North American doors.
  • Backset: The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore (typically 2-3/8″ or 2-3/4″). The lock must match the backset.
  • Home automation integration: If the lock needs to integrate with an existing system (Google Home, Apple HomeKit, Amazon Alexa, SmartThings), confirm compatibility before purchase.

Ask these questions before a smart lock is purchased — not after.

For more: Questions to Ask a Locksmith About Smart Locks and Security Upgrades

Red Flags to Watch For

A very low advertised price followed by a much higher on-site price. The classic locksmith scam: a $19–$39 dispatch fee advertised online, followed by explanations on site for why the lock is “high security,” why the installation is “complex,” or why the “standard” service doesn’t cover this situation — resulting in a bill of $300–$600. Get the full estimate before booking.

Insisting on drilling without attempting to pick the lock first. Professional locksmiths attempt non-destructive entry first. Drilling is a last resort. A locksmith who drills immediately — or who says the lock can’t be picked when it’s a standard residential deadbolt — is either unskilled or looking to charge for a new lock.

Unable to provide a physical business address. Fraudulent locksmith operations frequently have no local presence. If the company can’t give you a verifiable street address, look elsewhere.

Demanding cash only. Legitimate locksmith businesses accept credit cards and provide receipts. Cash-only operators are unaccountable.

Arriving in an unmarked vehicle with no business identification. A professional locksmith arrives in a marked vehicle (or at minimum with business identification and a receipt book). An unmarked van with no ID is a risk.

For a full guide: Red Flags When Hiring a Locksmith

Before They Start: A Quick Checklist

  • Full price estimate confirmed over the phone before booking
  • Physical business address verified
  • Identification and insurance requested for arrival
  • Entry method for lockouts confirmed (non-destructive first)
  • Rekeying scope agreed (all locks? Keyed alike?)
  • Smart lock compatibility confirmed before purchase
  • Payment method confirmed (credit card accepted)

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