Smart locks have moved from novelty to mainstream — keypad entry, Bluetooth proximity unlocking, WiFi-connected access control, and smartphone apps for monitoring and temporary access codes are all now standard features in mid-range residential locks. A locksmith who installs smart locks should understand not just the physical installation but the technology ecosystem — compatibility with home automation platforms, connectivity requirements, and the security implications of connected hardware.
“The smart lock question I hear most is: are these actually secure? And the honest answer is: the physical lock mechanism in a quality smart lock is as strong as a quality traditional lock. The vulnerability in smart locks is almost never the lock itself — it’s the WiFi network, the app credentials, or the temporary access codes that don’t get deleted when they should. The physical installation is straightforward. The security hygiene around it matters just as much.”
— Dmitri Volkov, licensed locksmith and security consultant with 18 years of experience in residential and commercial locksmith services in the local area
Table of Contents
Questions Before Purchasing a Smart Lock
Is this lock compatible with my door?
Before purchasing any smart lock, confirm door compatibility:
Bore size: Most residential smart locks are designed for the standard 2-1/8″ bore (the hole in the door for the lock cylinder). Confirm your door has this bore size or can be adapted.
Backset: The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore hole — either 2-3/8″ or 2-3/4″ in standard North American doors. The lock must match your door’s backset, or an adjustable-backset lock must be specified.
Door thickness: Most smart locks accommodate standard door thicknesses (1-3/8″ to 1-3/4″). Very thick or unusual doors may need specific models.
Existing deadbolt: Some smart locks replace only the interior assembly (thumb turn and motor), leaving the existing exterior cylinder in place. Others replace the entire lockset. Know which type you’re buying.
Ask the locksmith to assess your door before a specific lock is purchased.
Is this lock compatible with my home automation system?
If you have a home automation system and want the smart lock to integrate with it, confirm compatibility before purchasing:
Z-Wave: A wireless protocol used by many smart home hubs (SmartThings, Hubitat, Ring). Many smart locks use Z-Wave.
Zigbee: Another wireless protocol. Less common in locks but present in some models.
WiFi (direct): Locks with built-in WiFi connect directly to your router without a hub. Convenient but require a stable WiFi signal at the door.
Bluetooth: Proximity-based unlocking — the lock detects your phone when nearby. Requires a hub or WiFi bridge for remote access.
Platform compatibility: Apple HomeKit, Google Home, Amazon Alexa — confirm the specific lock is certified for the platforms you use, not just marketed as compatible.
Ask the locksmith which platforms and protocols the proposed lock supports and whether it’s been confirmed compatible with your existing system.
Questions About Installation
Does this installation require any door modifications?
Most smart lock installations are designed to use the existing door preparation without modification. Ask whether:
- The existing bore holes are the correct size and location
- The existing door edge bore (for the latch bolt) is the correct size
- Any additional wiring or power source is required (some locks require wiring for power; most battery-operated locks don’t)
How is the lock powered, and what happens during a power failure or dead battery?
Battery-powered locks: The most common. Ask what battery type, estimated battery life, and whether there’s a low-battery warning. Most battery-powered smart locks also have a physical key override — confirm this.
Hardwired locks: Less common in residential applications. Require electrical work.
What happens when the battery dies: For most smart locks, a dead battery means no electronic function — the door can only be opened with the physical key if one is provided, or with a 9-volt battery touching the terminal on the exterior (a feature of many keypad locks for emergency entry).
Ask specifically what the dead-battery scenario looks like for the lock being installed.
Questions About Security
What is the physical security rating of this smart lock?
Smart lock marketing often emphasizes technology features while glossing over physical security ratings. Ask:
- What ANSI/BHMA grade is this lock? (Grade 1 is the highest residential grade)
- Has the lock been tested for pick resistance, bump resistance, and physical attack resistance?
- Does the lock use a standard key cylinder (which can be picked) or a higher-security cylinder?
How is access managed and how are temporary codes deleted?
One of the most common smart lock security failures is temporary access codes that are created for a contractor, house cleaner, or guest and never deleted. Ask the locksmith:
- How are access codes created and deleted in this system?
- Is there a way to set codes with expiry dates?
- What happens to codes if the lock loses connectivity?
What are the cybersecurity considerations for a WiFi-connected lock?
A WiFi-connected lock is a connected device that can theoretically be attacked like any other connected device. Ask:
- Does this lock’s app require two-factor authentication?
- Are firmware updates automatic?
- What is the manufacturer’s track record on security updates?
For most residential applications with a quality lock from a reputable manufacturer (Schlage, Yale, August, Kwikset), the cybersecurity risk is manageable. Be more cautious with off-brand or very cheap WiFi locks.
Related Questions
- Questions to Ask a Locksmith Before You Hire One
- Questions to Ask a Locksmith About Rekeying and Lock Upgrades
- How Much Does a Locksmith Cost ?
- Red Flags When Hiring a Locksmith
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