Rekeying is one of the most valuable and most underutilized locksmith services — and one of the most cost-effective security improvements available to homeowners. When you move into a new home, when you lose keys, when a relationship ends, or when a tenant moves out, rekeying ensures that previously issued keys no longer work. It costs a fraction of lock replacement and provides the same functional security benefit.
“The most common security mistake I see when people move into a new home is not rekeying. Previous owners, previous tenants, real estate agents, contractors who worked on the house — they may all have copies of the key. Rekeying is $15 to $25 per lock cylinder, takes 10 minutes per lock, and completely eliminates that risk. It’s the first call I’d make after moving in.”
— Dmitri Volkov, licensed locksmith and security consultant with 18 years of experience in residential and commercial locksmith services in the local area
Questions About Rekeying
What is rekeying, and when does it make sense versus lock replacement?
Rekeying: The locksmith removes the cylinder from the existing lock, replaces the internal pin stacks with new pins that match a different key cut, and reinstalls the cylinder. The lock hardware (the deadbolt body, the escutcheon, the strike plate) remains unchanged. Only the key that operates it changes.
Rekeying makes sense when:
– The existing hardware is in good condition and is a quality grade
– You want to change who has access without replacing functional hardware
– Budget is a consideration — rekeying is significantly less expensive than replacement
– You want multiple locks to operate on the same key
Lock replacement makes sense when:
– The existing hardware is worn, damaged, or low quality
– You want to upgrade the security grade of the lock
– The existing lock is not rekeyable (some very cheap locks or proprietary systems)
– You want a different style or finish
Can all my locks be rekeyed to the same key?
Yes, in most cases. Rekeying all door locks to operate on a single key (called “keying alike” or “master keying to one key”) is a standard locksmith service. Ask the locksmith to confirm:
- Are all your existing locks the same brand? (Keying alike is simpler within the same brand family)
- If you have locks from different brands, they can often still be rekeyed to the same key — ask the locksmith to assess this
- How many locks are you rekeying, and what is the per-lock cost?
When should I rekey my locks?
The most important moments to rekey:
Moving into a new home: Always rekey every exterior lock. You have no way of knowing how many key copies were made during the previous ownership — by prior owners, tenants, family members, real estate agents, contractors, or housekeepers.
After losing keys: If lost keys haven’t been recovered, rekey immediately. Even if you believe the keys are simply misplaced, an unknown key in circulation is a security risk.
After a relationship breakdown: When a partner, spouse, roommate, or family member moves out and the relationship is contentious.
After employee termination: For home-based businesses or properties with employee access. Commercial applications often use master key systems for this reason.
After a break-in: If a break-in occurred through a key rather than forced entry, rekey immediately. If it was forced entry, assess whether the lock itself was damaged.
Questions About Lock Grades and Upgrades
What grade of lock do I currently have, and is it adequate?
Residential locks in North America are graded by ANSI/BHMA (American National Standards Institute / Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association):
ANSI Grade 3: The minimum grade. Basic residential security. Most builder-grade locks (commonly found in new construction) are Grade 3. These provide minimal resistance to physical attack.
ANSI Grade 2: Intermediate grade. Better than builder-grade. Adequate for most residential applications when combined with a properly installed strike plate.
ANSI Grade 1: The highest residential/light commercial grade. Significantly stronger. Recommended for any exterior door, particularly primary entry points.
Ask the locksmith what grade your existing deadbolts are and whether upgrading to Grade 1 is recommended.
What is the most cost-effective security upgrade for my front door?
The deadbolt is only as strong as the strike plate anchoring it to the door frame. A standard strike plate attached with 3/4″ screws can be kicked in — the screws pull through the thin door frame material with minimal force. The most cost-effective single security upgrade:
High-security strike plate with 3″ screws: Replaces the standard strike plate with a heavy-gauge steel plate and 3-inch screws that reach the structural framing of the wall. Costs approximately $15–$30 in materials plus labor. Dramatically increases kick-in resistance.
Ask the locksmith whether your existing strike plates are standard or reinforced, and whether upgrading them makes sense for your situation.
What about door reinforcement beyond the lock?
A deadbolt is only one component of a secure door. Ask the locksmith to assess:
- Door frame integrity: Is the frame solid wood or hollow? Is it properly anchored to the rough framing?
- Door hinge security: Are hinges secured with long screws reaching the framing?
- Door material: A hollow-core door can be breached regardless of the lock quality
A comprehensive security assessment addresses all of these.
Related Questions
- Questions to Ask a Locksmith Before You Hire One
- Questions to Ask a Locksmith About Smart Locks and Security Upgrades
- How Much Does a Locksmith Cost ?
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