Fence selection involves more trade-offs than most homeowners realize — between aesthetics, privacy, maintenance requirements, durability, and cost. The right fence for a property with mature shade trees is different from the right fence for a sun-exposed south-facing yard. The right fence for a family with dogs is different from one for purely aesthetic property definition. Knowing what to ask about materials, post installation, and design helps you evaluate whether what’s being proposed is genuinely right for your situation.
“Post installation is where fence quality is made or broken — just like footings on a deck. A beautiful cedar fence on posts that are in 12 inches of concrete will be leaning in five years. A simple chain link fence on posts properly set at 36 inches in proper concrete will stand for 25 years. The material gets all the attention; the post installation determines the outcome.”
— Miriam Okello, outdoor structures specialist and fence installation contractor with 12 years of residential fencing experience in the local area
Table of Contents
Questions About Post Installation
How deep will posts be set?
Post depth is the single most important variable in fence installation. Insufficient depth leads to frost heaving and lateral lean over time. Guidelines:
General rule: Posts should be set at a depth of one-third to one-half the total post length below grade. A 6-foot post (1.8m) in a 6-foot fence should be set at least 2 feet (600mm) deep; deeper is better in frost-prone areas.
Frost-prone climates (all of your region): Posts must extend below the frost line to prevent heaving — generally 900mm–1.2m (3–4 feet) deep for taller fences in many regions’s climate.
Ask specifically how deep posts will be set and whether this depth is appropriate for your fence height and climate.
What a good answer looks like: A specific depth in inches, with a rationale that references frost depth and fence height.
How will posts be set in concrete?
There are two approaches to concrete post installation:
Wet concrete poured around the post: The traditional method. The post is placed in the hole, concrete is poured around it, and the concrete is shaped to a crown above grade to shed water. This is the most common approach and, when done correctly, very durable.
Dry-set concrete (AKA dry-pour method): Dry concrete mix is poured around the post and water is added or allowed to migrate from the soil. This is a faster method but produces weaker concrete in some conditions.
Ask which method is being used and how the concrete will be shaped at the top of the hole (a mound sloping away from the post helps shed water and extends the life of the wood at grade).
Will wood posts be treated for ground contact?
Wood fence posts in contact with soil and concrete must be rated for ground contact — pressure-treated lumber designated UC4A or UC4B. Using posts rated only for above-ground contact (UC3B or less) will result in premature rot at the base. Ask specifically what treatment rating the posts carry.
What a good answer looks like: Ground-contact rated pressure-treated lumber (UC4B) specified for all posts.
Questions About Fence Materials
What specific material are you recommending, and why?
Ask for a specific product recommendation with a rationale tied to your situation:
Cedar: Naturally rot-resistant, visually appealing, works well for privacy and decorative applications. Requires staining or sealing every 2–3 years to maintain appearance. Western red cedar is more durable than eastern white cedar. Ask specifically which species is being used.
Pressure-treated pine: Durable and affordable. Less aesthetically refined than cedar. Can be painted or stained. ACQ-treated lumber is the standard. Ask what treatment rating is specified for fence boards vs. posts.
Vinyl/PVC: Low maintenance, won’t rot or require painting. Quality varies significantly by product:
– Wall thickness: Heavier gauge vinyl is significantly more durable, particularly in cold climates where thin-gauge vinyl becomes brittle
– Internal reinforcement: Quality vinyl fence posts often have a steel core or reinforcing insert for added rigidity
Ask specifically for the wall thickness and whether internal reinforcement is included.
Aluminum: Corrosion-resistant, maintenance-free, appropriate for ornamental applications. Not typically used for privacy fencing.
Chain link: Practical, durable, cost-effective. Ask about the gauge of the chain link fabric (heavier gauge = more durable) and the post diameter and gauge.
Composite: Wood-plastic composite fence boards. Low maintenance, resists rot. Similar product quality considerations to composite decking.
What are the maintenance requirements for this material over 5 and 10 years?
Ask explicitly what ongoing maintenance the proposed material requires and how that compares to alternatives. A homeowner who doesn’t want to stain a fence every few years should not be sold a cedar fence without that conversation.
Questions About Design and Layout
How will the fence handle grade changes?
Sloped lots present a design challenge for fencing. There are two approaches:
Stepped fencing: The fence steps down in sections following the grade, with each section level and the same height. Creates a clean, consistent top line but leaves gaps at the bottom where each section steps.
Raked fencing: The top of the fence rails and boards follow the slope of the grade, maintaining a consistent bottom clearance. More difficult to build cleanly but eliminates bottom gaps.
Ask which approach is being proposed and whether it’s appropriate for your specific grade change and the intended purpose of the fence (a raked privacy fence with bottom gaps may not adequately contain pets, for example).
Where exactly will the fence be placed?
Fence placement along property lines must be verified before installation. Ask the contractor how the property line will be confirmed — whether they work from a survey plan, from existing survey markers, or from a licensed surveyor’s report.
What a good answer looks like: A clear process for confirming the property line from survey documentation before the first post is set.
How will the gate be designed and hardwared?
Gates are the most frequently problematic element of any fence installation. Ask specifically:
- What hinge type is being used? (Heavy-duty strap hinges are more durable than light residential hinges for large gates)
- What latch or lock hardware is being used?
- How is the gate frame being reinforced? (An anti-sag kit or diagonal brace prevents gate sag over time)
- Is the gate opening wide enough for your intended use (lawn equipment, vehicle access, etc.)?
Related Questions
- Questions to Ask a Deck or Fence Contractor Before You Hire One
- Questions to Ask a Deck or Fence Contractor About Permits and Inspections
- Questions to Ask When Getting a Deck or Fence Quote
- Red Flags When Hiring a Deck or Fence Contractor
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